I am lucky to call the state of Washington home. As a cyclist however I am not just lucky, I am absolutely privileged. Washington state is home to many things but most importantly to me, it is home to miles and miles of wonderful trails. A specific route with a length of 730 miles however has truly captured my interest and more importantly my heart.

The Cross-Washington Mountain bike Route or XWA (pronounced “EX-WAH”) takes you from the Pacific Ocean in the small town of La Push Washington to the Idaho/Washington border town of Tekoa (pronounced TEE-CO). In a span of 730 miles, you have the opportunity to see the state in a way that few have experienced. The ever-abundant variety of views and terrain is enough to satisfy any outdoor enthusiasts’ needs and wants. But the views are not what makes this route special to me. It’s not the picturesque sunsets, or the evergreen landscapes, it’s not the strong winds that sway the never-ending wheat fields of the east or peaceful desolation of the old wagon roads as you near the end of your adventure. The special part of this route, the thing that has made the last three years of my life revolve around XWA is the route. The route is challenging, the route is fun, the route is miserable, the route is wonderful. I have never been so emotionally whiplashed by an imaginary line on my GPS screen until I stumbled across the XWA. It gives and it takes, and when it gives a lot, it swiftly takes back a lot. It’s beautiful and perfect because its ugly and flawed, and I think that’s why it’s so great.

I caught up with the creator of the route is “Thee” Troy Hopwood (https://www.youtube.com/@TroyOnTrails). A mountain bike racer turned bikepacking enthusiast that like many others before him, had aspirations to take on the Queen Stage of mountain biking routes in Northern America, The Tour Divide. In preparation for the Tour Divide, Troy decided that rather than traveling away from home to train on established trails, why not create a route with what he had here at home. Great Idea Troy! And with that The WXA was created. The next great Idea that Troy had was ” Why don’t I get all my buddies to try this route with me?”

I caught up with Troy to see what he had to say about the creation of the route:

“It actually started out as a 720-mile loop in the Cascades, at the time the Palouse to Cascades Trail was known as the John Wayne Trail and the Iron Horse Trail, so many names. It was at risk of being lost due to some politicians that tried to give it back to the adjacent farmers. Due to a typo which screwed it up, suddenly everyone was aware of what they were trying to do. And the number one complaint was, “well, no one uses it, so why should we keep it?” That kind of lit a fire under me and I said “well, I’ll make people use it!” And so instead of being a loop in the Cascades now it’s not just an arbitrary route, now it’s across the state, which to me, felt more impactful than just riding a route. You’re now crossing an entire state.” 

The inaugural grand depart was in 2017 with roughly 20 people in attendance. Every year attendance has grown and this year XWA had around 50 participants. Needless to say the participation has grown stronger every year and with some help from Troy people are using the trails that were once at risk of being lost for good.

My journey with XWA began in 2020 when I stumbled across the XWA route on a quest to begin bikepacking. I did what I usually do when I gain interest in something new, I spent hours on YouTube watching anything and everything in preparation for my venture into the unknown. With my luck, I found the PNW Bikepacking’s youtube channel and their video about the XWA. I was hooked! It wasn’t until 2022 that I finally showed up at the grand depart to join the rest of the first time hopefuls and veteran riders of the route. Long story short, my first attempt ended at 92 miles in Port Angeles but not before having issues with all of my electronics, running out of water, and most importantly legs. The following morning my wonderful wife and 2 year old daughter came to pick me up from the hotel in Port Angeles. I was done, I was humbled, I was not ready, and the route deserved more from me. On the nearly 2 hour drive home I surprised my wife with a question that she may not have been expecting from me, “Can I try again next year?”

The next year was bound to be the year I would finally finish, I told myself. We moved, I got a new job, we welcomed our second daughter into our lives, I rode more in preparation but not much more, and I was ready, or so I told myself. There I was again on the beach in La Push, my second year in a row, and once again I made it to Port Angeles; but just barely. My electronics were great and I had plenty of water! My knees on the other hand felt like they were going to explode likely due to poor fitness and my YouTube certified DIY bike fit. I stayed on route this time and made it to the Red Lion Hotel in Port Angeles, just in time to call my wife for a ride. I was again not ready and the route deserved more from me, I deserved more from me. On the ride home the second time without being asked my wife assured me that I could try again next year. She’s a saint.

This brings us to 2024, my third attempt. Luckily there is more than just a single paragraph needed to tell the story of my third go. Hang out for just a little longer and keep an eye out for new posts coming down the line. Because on my third year with XWA I happened to make it past Port Angeles…